Find out more about the power of affirmations at the Affirmative Contemplation website at http://www.AffirmativeContemplation.com . You can receive Dr. Rebbie Straubing’s Free e-Course, 7 Secrets for Manifesting Your Heart’s Desire, at http://www.yofa.net/7secret.html . Dr. Rebbie Straubing is a workshop leader, Abraham Coach, and inspirational writer.
Learn Oil Painting – Basics of Paint Selection
When painting with oil paints, it is wise to learn the different aspects of oil based paints. Oil paints dry quite slowly and therefore it is very easy to correct errors, or change the direction of your painting.
The three types of oil paint finishes are Transparent, Semi-Opaque and Opaque.
Transparent paints are see through paints and are often used for rain, bursts of sunlight, mist, or anything else that requires a light, transparent appearance.
Opaque paints are not see through at all and are used when a more vibrant color and finish are desired. Most of the base elements of the painting will be painted with opaque paints.
Semi-Transparent paints are a cross between Transparent and Opaque Paints. Semi Transparent paint is normally used to tone down a color or for subtle highlights. The way in which you use these different paint finishes will change as your skill and experience improves.
It is very common to mix Linseed oil with your oil paints. Doing so makes the paint more manageable and helps to extend the color. When you mix the Linseed oil to your paint, your paint is then referred to as “long paint”. When paint is used directly out of the tube, it is referred to as “short paint”.
It is worth mentioning the board on which you will dispurse your paint from the tube is called the “palette”. If you are mixing in the Linseed oil to your paint, this also will be done on the pallete. The palette is also where you can mix various colors of oil paint to achieve desired textures and colors.
The canvas of course, is where you will paint your painting. The canvas needs to have a “base coat” of paint applied before you can start the painting. This cuts down on glare from the material that the canvas is made of. As stated earlier, oil based paint dries very slowly. This is why many artists choose to apply an acrylic paint as their base coat. Acrylic paint dries much faster. This is fine as one can then apply the oil paint over the basecoat of acrylic without any issues. Usually three to four light coats of a base acrylic paint will do the job. This also helps to add texture to your painting.
The base coat is applied with a large brush that is referred to as a “wash brush”. The most common colors used for the base coat are ochre, raw umber, burnt umber. Apply evenly in light coats and allow to thoroughly dry in between coats.
Always buy professional grade paints for your projects. I prefer the Windsor and Newton brand of paints. There are a couple of other respected brands on the market as well. You can find them under the Old Holland and Michael Harding brands. I purchase most of my supplies at Dick Blick and find that they always have the best selection of inventory available for my needs.
Of course if you are buying the best paints, then it only makes sense to apply them with top paint brushes. You will find additional painting tips at my website, including tips on selecting the proper brushes for your projects.
When I chose to learn oil painting, I added an entirely new dimension to my life. If you have some patience, and a willingness to learn, I am positive that you will enjoy painting as well. Painting is not just a hobby, it can be a major part of your life and who you are as a person.
Learn Oil Painting – Basics of Paint Selection
Heather Price found a love of painting later in life after raising her family. She was looking for a way to spend her free time when she discovered painting. Through her experience she has developed a vast knowledge of oil painting and shares her tips and advice at her website which can be found at http://www.howtooilpaint.org.
Content About : Learn Oil Painting – Basics of Paint Selection Article
How to Prevent Paint Sags
Sagging is a term used in painting. It is when gravity will cause an overloaded area of paint to droop or sag in a horizontal line. It occurs with all paint applications; brush, roller and spraying. It also occurs when painting over-head and in this circumstance will appear as a drip. Strictly speaking, on application it occurs when too much paint is applied. Paint application thickness is measured in mm. Also referred to is spread rate, which details the square footage area of how much paint can be applied to a surface at the recommended mm thickness. Of course when a sag occurs it is when the specific area has exceeded the application thickness.
A sag occurs most commonly with spray applications. When you are using an airless sprayer a high volume of paint is being applied to the surface you’re painting. You have to take special precautions that you are not over applying the paint, especially around corners or crevices where paint can accumulate very quickly. A basic entry level airless spray machine will spray half a gallon of paint a minute, a gallon can generally come close to painting an average sized room. It is common practice when spraying walls to back roll with a roller. This is to apply the paint more securely to the surface and also to remedy any sags that may have occurred. Sags can be observed most commonly on commercial applications, often in these circumstances the contractor is under strict deadlines and the quality of the job is not the top priority. When trying to achieve one coat with a sprayer you can end up with a sag if not careful. When using a sprayer it is best to have a sponge and 9″ roller with you in case a paint sag occurs.
When rolling its generally the same reason; over-accumulation of paint on the wall, but a whole different cause. While rolling, the paint sags start before the roller even touches the wall. The perpetrator here is getting the paint off the roller. The only way to do that is back roll in your pan. Those grooves in the pan are there for this reason. What they do is give you just the right amount of paint to roll a section by spreading the paint on your roller evenly. When training an employee generally this will be one of there first mistake on rolling. The sag can always be traced back to the way in which the roller was used. For example; a sporadic or non-uniform painting motion will more than likely leave an area with to much paint, or at the top of the roll there may be some accumulation of paint that when gets on the wall will produce a sag. A back roll always comes in handy to prevent this type of paint sag from happening. The most adequate way to prevent paint sags from rolling is to back roll in your pan and roll the paint on in a fluent “I” or “V” shaped pattern. With rolling you just have to be aware, the goal is to catch the sag before it happens and ensure that the paint has been spread evenly without being over rolled.
Brush work is similar to rolling. It is similar in the sense that you are going through the same procedures. When applying paint on your brush you have to the right amount appropriate for the job. You need enough paint to obviously get paint on the wall, but not too much that the paint is going to drip from your brush land on the floor. On the other hand, someone wants the job done so please do not dry brush. There are a few schools of thought on how to get your paint off your brush. One method is to shake their brush inside the paint container to remove excess paint. Another method is to pat or tap your brush against the instead ‘walls’ of the paint container. While I generally scrape one side and then execute the cut with a underside bead! However all methods share the same goal of producing a feasible amount of paint on your brush. Just like rolling, brushing is the same in that you have to back brush. Anywhere along the stroke of the brush you can achieve a sag, your only defense is a back brush to spread the paint evenly and smoothly.
Another reason for a sag is the condition of the environment. Generally it will not be this reason however in extreme cases, and understanding the properties of paint we can know why this might happen. When paint dries there are two parts to the paint, liquid and solids, while the liquid will evaporate the solids become the finished paint. Rarely, extreme cases of moisture and temperatures may be the cause of a paint sag. With too much moisture in the air the liquid will not evaporate, causing the weight of the paint to produce a paint sag. A uniform coat can be applied and a sag can still take place providing that these symptoms are present. Careless painting over a glossy surface can also produce paint sags. Glossy surfaces are also slippery, so paint will then slip on the surface and cause a sag. To remedy this situation a quick scuff sanding is recommended. This will reduce the glossy affect of the surface and create a condition referred to as “tooth” allowing the paint to “bite” and adhere to the surface more ideally.
My last interaction with a sag was on a commercial job. I was using my airless sprayer to coat twelve shelves in a low light condition. After applying the first coat I was reviewing my work with a 500-watt work light and found a paint sag. Immediately, I back rolled the area with a mini sponge roller then re-sprayed a light coat to product a consistent finish. If a sag is caught in time you can back roll or brush it. If it dries you have to sand it with 60 to 100 grit sandpaper depending on the severity of the sag. If hand sanding will not produce a smooth finish on the surface you will need to plaster the area or even get out a belt-sander. After the surface prep is complete then you will prime and or top coat.
How to Prevent Paint Sags
Jason Rouleau is owner & operator of Painter for Hire, a Toronto area painting contractor specializing in residential and commercial painting.
Content About : How to Prevent Paint Sags Article
So You Want to Know How to Paint in Oil Like Van Gogh and Picasso? Here’s Oil Painting 101!
Painting in oil has long been a mysterious process the public has believed was relegated to the few and the eccentric. Artists and their lives have always been an unusual breed, but painting a large body of original oil paintings has also been a sure-fire way to drive oneself into immortality. The paintings will always be there, traveling through history, with your name on it! So by this definition it’s definitely a noble profession. Think Dali, van Gogh, Picasso, Rembrandt and da Vinci. Each enjoys a lofty reputation for what others might consider crafts. And their reputations only grow bigger over time. What other profession offers that possibility? So who got the last laugh? Well, van Gogh did, of course. He’s forever immortalized as one of the greatest humans to have ever lived. Not bad for someone who never made a dime in his own lifetime. But in the age of the Internet and the worldwide marketplace, artists don’t have to starve anymore. I’m not starving, and I’m making money doing what I love. I can also work anywhere, whether I’m on vacation or traveling to exotic locales. I love that the most about it. I can do whatever I want and wherever I want, and post a painting for sale from Ibiza, Paris, London…. or Omaha. I wouldn’t trade with anyone. And you won’t either if you work at it and treat as a way to offer beauty to the world and get paid for it!
The purpose of this article is to take the mystery out of the process of painting. This article is only written to get you started. I’ll write more detailed techniques later. But this article will set you on your way to experimenting and having fun with paint. Ultimately it’s like anything in this world. Before you have the knowledge, it’s complicated. But once you have it, it’s easy! Knowledge is power, and this phenomenon definitely applies to painting. The technical aspects are the easy part. Anyone can do it. You ultimately could be as capable as Monet with practice. We humans can do whatever we decide to do! Deciding WHAT to paint is the hard part. It takes discipline and a singularly focused desire to create one painting after another. For whatever reason, I loved it the minute I started. And I never looked back. I love it today as much as I did over 16 years ago. I never have “writer’s block” either as to what to paint. I just paint from my experiences in life. So don’t think too hard on it. Paint that apple sitting on the table, or paint the tree in your own back yard, paint your girlfriend in an unusual way. But paint something that means something to you, that’s all that matters. Make it funky, make it interesting. If it’s abstract, remember that abstract art has long been the most desirable. It’s an expression of the individual, make it unique. For those who want realism, take a picture. What’s amazing is that once you do it, you realize it’s the ultimate escape into happiness. Suddenly you forget your problems for that period of time. You have control, and no one can take it away from you once you are skilled at painting. The process is addicting. But like anything, you must START! And once you do, look out….you’ll be hooked.
OK, let’s get started. Step one…supplies. You need a flat brush, a fan, a small detail brush and a couple of Filberts. A filbert is a rounded edge brush that lets you maneuver the paint easily without going outside the edges. Ultimately buy brushes that you like though, and make them work. Fans allow you to blend, for example. I use fans a lot and it’s how I graduate color throughout my images. Everything I paint is by hand….no airbrushing or assistants. I want it to be an expression of me and nobody else. You also need an oil painting medium to mix with the oil paint to make it more fluid, and to speed or slow the drying process. Whichever you prefer. Go to the art store and don’t be afraid to ask for help….they’ll love helping you! A medium is merely an additive liquid which increases gloss, makes it flow easily, preserves the finish over time, keeps it from yellowing. I personally love Galkyd and Galkyd Lite. If that isn’t available, buy a medium that looks like liquid amber and is kind of thick. Don’t buy watery looking mediums….too hard to work with.
The lite version of Galkyd is simply thinner. I use it more than the other. I love it. Paintings I did 16 years ago using Galkyds look as pristine as the day I painted them. You’ll also need a canvas and some paint. I buy a tube of red, green, blue, purple, yellow, brown, white and black. I prefer what’s called Ivory Black and a soft mixing white as you’ll add white to a lot of different colors to make lighter versions. From these basic colors you can make any exotic color by mixing them in combination’s. Be creative and experiment. And don’t be afraid of color, because color is the most popular in museums! The bright paintings are historically the crowd favorites. As for color variety from these basic colors, mix red and white to make pink, mix yellow with green to make lime green, white with blue to make light blue, white with black to make gray, etc. Use your common sense and play with it! You’ll also need pencils, an eraser and some Turpentine or Turpentine substitute. Keep your brushes soaking in it in a plastic cup to keep them clean and ready for your next color choice…. and to keep them from drying out.
Now, decide WHAT you want to paint. Very important…you do NOT need to know how to draw. That’s the great thing about painting, you can create even if you’ve never had a lesson. Don’t get me wrong, art school is great. But don’t let the lack thereof deter you from creating. You do not have to have a teacher to tell you how to create. You do need to know a few basic techniques, but from there let your imagination fly! When deciding what to paint, go to some websites about artists or Google famous artists to get inspired. Again, do not let a lack of training deter you from painting! Many of the great artists of the past had no training either. Many can’t draw stick figures, but they can paint because the colors give you amazing options of expression! You may also go to my websites mentioned below or google me to see all the crazy work I’ve created. My personal preference has been to create a large variety of work to keep it interesting and versatile. I did not want to be that artist who only painted one thing over and over. To me that’s boring, and it should be boring to you too. Any known artist of the past has a vast variety of work. You’ll also find that it makes it more interesting to you while you’re doing it, because you won’t ever get bored, you’ll always be wondering how it’ll turn out.
Step two: Now roughly draw onto the canvas what you want to create in paint. Don’t worry, it does not have to be perfect. Your cool application of paint from your innermost imagination will make it look good. If you mess up with the pencil, simply erase it off and start over. Warning: resist the urge to simply copy some artist’s painting from the past. That’s career suicide, and so boring. You’re smart, make your own art. It’s much more interesting and unique. A copy of a painting from the past has the sole purpose of making you look like a copycat, and who needs that on their resume? Remember, deciding WHAT to paint is the hardest part. But once you get into the flow it will come to you, I promise. Paint from your own life is the best career advice as a painter. Truth is more bizarre than fiction anyway. And I believe people like to kind of know what they’re looking at, as opposed to simply painting a solid layer of red and calling it art. Be creative, go with the flow, don’t over think it. Paint what you want to paint and the world will ultimately find it interesting. After all, it’s YOUR art. Painting nature is always a good idea, as nature never goes out of style.
Step three: go online and study the basics of shadow and light. It’s a visual thing, and too complicated to talk about here. But once you see it, it’ll come to you quickly. Simply Google “shadow and light in painting” and the basics will come up. Once you know these rules, you can apply it to any shape, any form, any painting. And it’ll make you keenly aware of shadow and light on virtually any object on earth. It’s what makes a painting three- dimensional and expensive looking. You can also buy art books on shadow and light at any bookstore. But make sure you sit down for a couple of hours and study it. It will come quickly to you, I promise.
Step four: the key to a finished looking painting is to build it just like a house…and by that I mean layers. Paint it in the reverse order in which the eye sees it to make it three-dimensional. By this I mean paint what’s farthest from the eye first, and build layer upon layer towards the eye. In other words, do the background first because it should be the farthest from the eye, then add the objects on top of that, and then add the shadows to complete the look. Ultimately it’s common sense. If you paint a bowl of fruit, the bowl and fruit need to sit on top of that background, much as it would in real life.
Step five: pick your colors and start applying them to your penciled outlined images…make sure to mix the paints with a little Galkyd. Painting right out the tube is probably a bad idea, and it’ll take forever to dry. Mix the Galkyd pretty evenly with the paint until you reach your desired thickness of paint. Less Galkyd keeps the paint thick. More makes it thinner. A safe start for a painting subject is a still life, like a bowl of fruit. No matter what you do…within reason…it’ll look cool. You do not have to make a twig brown or an apple red just because nature says so. Use your imagination. Do something different. Collectors over time like to watch you evolve painting by painting anyway. So don’t worry if your first painting stinks in your mind. It’ll be interesting later once you’re great. And by the way, most famous paintings have an under drawing, so they’ve used this layout technique I mention above. Sorry to tell you, most inspired paintings were planned out with pencil first. They did not happen spontaneously. They were built logically and in a defined order so that the end result looks right.
OK, now let it dry overnight. The next day….or whenever you get around to it….mix a lot of Galkyd with just a little bit of color and glaze it over the first layer. Layer upon layer….allowing each layer to dry… is what makes paintings look finished and interesting and expensive in my view. Certainly you can paint wet on wet, as van Gogh did. But that’s a much harder proposition we’ll talk about later. You can put as many layers as you wish until you get your desired look. A thin glaze of Galkyd with just a little black works great on top of any dried color underneath. It give it an antique and finished look. But be careful not to add too much black. Don’t worry, if you put too much just wipe it off and start over. That’s the great thing about oil is it dries slower and you can tweak, correct, start over before it dries. Tip: a thin layer of yellow glaze looks good on top of almost any color too. A thin glaze of green looks good over blue, a thin glaze of blue looks good over purple. But ultimately you can pick and choose and experiment with which color to add to your glazes. There are no rules. Invent ones of your own. A thin glaze of yellow on top of a dried layer of red looks awesome. A thin layer of yellow on boring brown make it look like expensive and not-boring brown. You get the idea. But make the process your own and have fun with it. No one will ever do it quite the way you do, and that’s what’s interesting about the process.
Step six: once you get all the layers just like you like, let it dry thoroughly for several days. Now take black and apply the shadows with your clean brush in keeping with the laws of shadow and light like you’ve learned earlier. If you put too much, wipe it back with a Q-tip or a rag until it looks like a shadow. Make sure you’re putting shadows on top of only dry under layers. Always clean your brushes in between colors to keep the colors isolated and pure too. You don’t want blue in your shadows, for example. Study my paintings if you wish because I do a lot of distinct shadows and I light things like vases, leaves, birds, fruit, etc. in ways that I think will stand out to you. Like if I paint a vase the bottom of the vase is darker than the top. Just like in real life. This applies to any shape whether it be a face or an apple or a vase. Also look at my backgrounds, as I’ve done a lot of them. Notice how each background is a multitude of layers to give it a finished and complicated look. Glazes allow me to reach this end. When I started out I didn’t know what I was doing and friends and family thought I was crazy. And the very same people act like they knew I’d make it now that I have. Oh well, it’s the way of the world. But stick with it and you’ll be enlightened and inspired over time!
In conclusion, this article has really just been a “Painting 101″ exercise. I’ll be adding more articles on the subject once you get more advanced. It’s so rewarding to those who stick with it. My work now sells around the world online. So I’m glad I’m glad I stuck with it. It’s been infinitely good to me, I’ve met the most interesting people….including Madonna! And I am so glad I get to do what I want And ultimately it’s so gratifying to leave expressions of myself behind forever. And if the owners then turn around and sell my paintings for a fortune later, then that’s the cherry on top for me. I feel lucky to have found my calling. And I hope you find it too. And I hope that every single time you view one of my paintings it brings you a little bit of the amazing joy it brought me when I was creating it.
Feel free to email me if you have questions at the email addresses below. But most important, you’ll find that with each painting you’ll get better and better. Carry forward everything you learn from each work and eventually you’ll have real talent! But only if you keep at it. And don’t worry about people telling you you’re crazy. They told that to van Gogh too! Sweet justice Vincent, sweet justice. He’s certainly getting the last laugh, isn’t he? And the world will know who Vincent van Gogh was for the rest of time. Not a bad gig.
So You Want to Know How to Paint in Oil Like Van Gogh and Picasso? Here’s Oil Painting 101!
Steve McElroy is an author and collected artist who works in oil. His ever-growing body of work, now numbering over 1,000 oil paintings, now hangs around the world. His work is in the collections of Mercedes-Benz, Mattel, Absolut Vodka, Madonna and private collectors around the world. You may view his work, accomplishments and websites by Googling Steve McElroy Artist. He is one of a few living artists listed with da Vinci, Cezanne, van Gogh, Dali, Rembrandt and other know artists at http://www.ARTmm.com in their Portfolio section. His new original work can be found for sale at http://www.eBid.net by entering Steve McElroy in the search window.
You may contact this artist by emailing McElroyFineArt@aol.com
How to Paint People With Acrylic
Acrylics is the most versatile of paints for fine art. There are many attributes of acrylic paints that make it my choice of paint. There are 3 main advantages of acrylic paints to oil paints and watercolors.
1. Varied Viscosity and Textures
Acrylics can be purchased with different levels of viscosity. This allows the artist to apply color using infinite choice of different techniques. One can apply the impasto technique by slapping on thick globs of paint on the support, or choose to thin the paint with water and make color wash like watercolor.
Acrylics have strong molecular bonds. The material is tacky and stretchable. This makes is possible to be mixed with solid granular or fibrous material to create interesting textures.
2. Different supports
The molecular structure mentioned above allows the paint to stick well to any thickness of material, from paper to wood or even metal, as long as the surface is not totally smooth.
3. Quick Drying
Quick drying paint is a boon to artists who paint layer on layer. Layering is not easy with oils because they take long to dry between layers. Watercolors are not color fast. Layering with watercolors is tricky since the paint is not color-fast. Layering of watercolors lead to bleeding and smudging of the under layer if one is not patient enough.
Within the scope of this article, I shall explain more of painting, as in applying color and not so much on drawing.
Skin Tones and Realism
Contrary to what many art teachers subscribe to, I do not believe there is such a thing as a formula for the color palette. One can use any combination of colors to create paintings of the human figure. I personally, use a very limited palette of not more than 2 colors plus black and white to paint people. The colors used should reflect the artist’s own painting style, and also the tone of the subject matter.
The use of black is actually optional. Some artists do not use black, but rather mix two complementary colors to produce a dark. One great mix would be Burnt Sienna and Ultramarine. However, one can also use Cerulean Blue instead of Ultramarine for a more ‘realistic’ skin undertone.
For eyes, hair and lips, when trying to achieve realism, less is often more. Keep the color of these features muted if unsure. The exception is, of course, when the intention is to exaggerate these feature.
Clothes and Accessories
Clothes and accessories make paintings interesting. If possible, try to paint these last after painting the complete figure. I tend to use the figures as the support for these accessories.
Different Physical Techniques For Painting People With Acrylics
Creating art is free. There are so many ways to apply acrylic paint. Here are 4 broad techniques one can explore.
1. Color Washing
This method is similar to watercolor painting, except that one can use this method to paint on paper or canvas. Use the most fluid Acrylic paint, and thin it with water. The best results are obtained when the paint is really watery-thin. Paint from the highlights and darken as you go. The way to darken the tones is to wait for each thin layer to dry and then paint another thin layer over.
The more layers, the more control one will have on the skin tones. Start with the lighter skin tones like the yellow highlights and gradually add the burnt sienna, and the blue tones for shadow.
The idea for this style is to keep the colors loose and free.
This techniques looks best on sturdy medium like stretched canvas and wood. It will not look so stable on paper. Visualize the famous portraits of Vincent van Gogh. The paint is thickly applied as if it was just squeezed out of the tube. Acrylic paints look like oil paint when applied this way. Buy paint which has high viscosity. If you need thicker texture, add acrylic gel medium. Apply the colors each stroke next to each other until the canvas is covered. While painting skin tones, most artists applying this technique would paint the darks first. This is because you want the highlights to appear on top of the surface. Hence, start with the shadows.
Extent of realism in this technique depends on the size of the brush strokes and the thickness of the paint. More realism is generally achieved by smaller strokes and less viscous paint.
This is the technique I use most in my present portfolio. The idea is somewhat in between the first two techniques. Use paint of varying viscosity. For lighter areas of the body, use paint thinned with water, and for areas which are darker of less detailed use slightly thicker paint.
For more control on realism, use thin layers. One can also adopt this technique called “Grisaille” method where the first under-painting is monotone to block in the shades.
4. Collage Techniques
Very popular with abstraction painters, and many artists today. This technique is not so much about painting with the traditional brush. The versatility of the paint allows us to mix and stick objects to the paint and onto the support. One can, use these objects under the paint or on top of the paint. Either way, there will be infinite possibility of textures and styles. Normally, realism in painting the human figure is not priority with this style.
Getting that X-factor in a painting
Human figures are the most interesting subjects to have in a painting. Even a landscape, a tiny figure of a person becomes the focal point. We are always drawn to body language. That is why I find it easy to communicate with art by painting people.
In order to add more drama, more expression in a figure painting, one can try experimenting on lighting, foreshortening, composition and clever use of color and brushstrokes.
The possibilities of painting people with acrylics are endless. An ultimate painting of the human figure can speak volumes and express a whole lot.
How to Paint People With Acrylic
Nik Helbig is an artist and art blogger living in Austria. She specializes in figurative paintings on canvas.
Content About : How to Paint People With Acrylic Article
How to Select and Buy Interior and Exterior House Paint
Paint Guide 101:
Go Green? What Paint is right for You? What is a good quality Paint? Here is a quick guide to choosing the right paint like a pro!
Before you can choose a paint, you need to ask yourself what do I expect out of this paint? If you are painting your house for the purpose of selling it your paint will not be the same as someone who has three children a messy pet and no intention of moving. There are many questions a paint retailer may ask you when you are buying paint. They may use words you are not familiar with so let’s give you a quick education on some terms and definitions.
Oil and Waterbourne paints: Well without getting to technical, oil based paints dry harder and need mineral spirits to clean up with for the average homeowner it is a real nightmare. Waterbourne paints do not dry as hard (which in many cases is a plus), they clean up with water and are much easier to work with. Oil paints should be regulated for covering unwanted stains.
Let’s talk about Sheen: The easiest way for me to explain sheen is to simply substitute the word sheen with shine or gloss. In most cases the more sheen the more durability/washability the paint has. The scale of sheen usually goes as follows Flat, Matte, Low Sheen/Luster, Eggshell, Satin/Pearl, Semi-gloss, Gloss. Paints with very low sheen tend to hide imperfections in walls; whereas glossier paints tend to reveal imperfections. That is why mostly ceilings are painted flat. Since the ceiling surface rarely gets touched, washability is not a concern and flat paint can help to hide drywall seams. Conversely doors and trim and baseboards get handled regularly so semi-gloss and gloss paints are the norm. What about your walls? Well look at your walls now are they subject to a lot of wear and tear? If you live alone or just don’t have any children or pets, you may enjoy the softness of flat or matte paint. However if you or your kids are “hands on” when it comes to your walls low sheen or eggshell will probably make the most sense. Satins are usually relegated to kitchens and bathrooms. That too is a judgment call.
Green Paints: What is the big deal with “green paints”? Well as a painter for over 15 years I couldn’t wait to switch to “green paints”! Here is the quick rundown. Non eco-friendly paints contain volatile organic compounds or VOC’s these are emitted from the paint as it dries. According to the EPA’s website, some health concerns are as follows “Eye, nose, and throat irritation; headaches, loss of coordination, nausea; damage to liver, kidney, and central nervous system. Some organics can cause cancer in animals; some are suspected or known to cause cancer in humans.” Now you know why I couldn’t wait to make the switch! So even if your not into saving the planet think of yourself and others who may be in the house your painting. The best thing about these “green paints ” is there are lots to choose from, some have No VOCs and some are Low VOCs. Sherwin Williams and Benjamin Moore have products at many different price points I commonly use their contractor grade products Pro Green by Sherwin Williams, and Eco Spec by Benjamin Moore and the performance of these paint surpassed their non eco-friendly predecessors.
Should I shell out for the best? In my years of experience for interior painting a mid-level paint works just fine. I always plan on doing two coats. Even the best paints despite their claims do not cover in one coat, unless the color is the same or very close. I’ve heard of claims of one coat coverage and I always ask the person selling me the paint, “Do you guarantee one coat coverage?” The answer is always, “No.” So my advice to you is if money is no object go ahead and by the top of the line, however if your on a budget you can achieve great results with a mid-level paint and keep that extra money in your pocket.
What about primers? For me primers are used in limited situations if you are painting over new drywall use a drywall primer (or if you are spot priming over spackle or patches). If you are covering an unwanted stain use an oil primer. Surfaces that may have been stained before, like paneling, use an oil primer. In some cases certain colors will require a gray primer to help reduce the number of coats. The reason for that is because the tints/colorants used give paints their color actually thin the paint hence the more colorants needed the more transparent and thinner the paint becomes. If you a just painting to change the color of your room and none of these circumstances pertain to you, you do not need a primer! Two coats of regular paint is all you need. Trust me.
Simple advice for Exterior Paints: if you are painting the exterior of your house ALWAYS buy the top of the line paint! The walls of your bedroom in 20 years will never be exposed to the conditions the exterior painted surfaces of your house will in three weeks. I recommend using a satin for added durability. When it comes to exterior paint you get what you pay for.
Ask Questions Don’t be afraid to ask questions. What do pros do when they aren’t sure what paint to use. They ask paint retailers and other painters. if you have a special problem area or a specialized look you want and don’t know how to get it, ask a paint retailer. Be as specific as you can and give them as much info as possible. Also you may want to do a specific search on the web.
You can now walk into any paint retailer with a sense of confidence! You may need to ask questions about their particular products, but you won’t be wearing that “deer in the headlights” look and nodding your head to anything the salesperson says.
How to Select and Buy Interior and Exterior House Paint
If you like this article and would like more helpful information or you would like to watch my step by step videos about painting click here
Ray Akers is a Painting Contractor in the Chicago area and has over 15 years experience. If you would like to see photo’s and videos of his work, visit him @ gogreenapple.com
Content About : How to Select and Buy Interior and Exterior House Paint Article
Economical Alternatives to Traditional Auto Body Repair – Paintless Dent Repair & Spot Paint Repair
Just noticed another ding on your beloved vehicle? Has your kid opened the door on someone’s car door and now you have to pay for the damage?
Do you have a larger, nastier dent or scratch on a fender or bumper that is going to cost you hundreds of dollars to repair?
If you have ever answered “yes” to any of these questions, then this article may be for you. So often, we spend lots of money repairing our vehicles when they get damaged. Many times it seems that things also decide to go wrong at the very worst possible times, such as when money is short and when our responsibilities demand we have our car. Add to this the rising cost of your insurance premiums with another claim, and it is easy to see why people are looking for alternatives to traditional auto body repair.
What choices do we have?
There are basically 3 options to choose from. In short, they are summed up as follows:
1. Paintless Dent Repair
2. Spot Paint Repair
3. Traditional Auto Body Repair
Paintless Dent Repair (PDR)
With Paintless Dent Removal highly trained technicians use specialized tools to massage damaged metal back to its original state – without the need for costly body repairs, without having to lose your vehicle for days, and at a price you can usually feel good about.
Here are some of the stats on Paintless Dent Repair (PDR).
• Maintains the integrity of the factory paint job (no fillers or paint that could later peel)
• Fast (Repairs can take 1/2 hour – 4 hours to perform. And some PDR techs are mobile)
• Economical ($50 – $200)
• Increases trade-in value
• Increases customer’s perception of vehicle condition
• Repaired dents may still be perceptible (80-95% of dent may be repaired. This is often acceptable & most people with untrained eyes would never notice.)
PDR works great on dings and dents where the paint is not broken. Although, it can help a dent even where the paint is broken. PDR can be used to fix dents that range in size from a “dime” to even a “softball” or greater. And, what’s more, PDR works great on creases as well. All of this, of course, will depend on how stretched the dents are and whether the PDR technician can get access to the back of the panel. One thing to be concerned with, too, is whether the technician will have to drill to get access. Sometimes this may be unavoidable in order to repair the damage, but you should ask for assurance that any holes that are drilled are properly sealed in order to prevent rust.
A testimony to Paintless Dent Repair’s effectiveness is the fact that many insurance companies will even choose paintless dent repair over traditional auto body repair when dealing with hail damage claims on a vehicle. The reason has to do with the benefits mentioned earlier. (And, quite honestly, if I drove a new vehicle that got pelted with hail, I would rather NOT have its factory paint job repainted only to have it possibly peel later.) Many hail-damaged vehicles can be repaired with paintless dent repair. This helps to minimize the number of panels that must be repainted to few or none at all.
So, if you think that paintless dent repair may be the way to go for you, then how do you go about finding a trained technician to repair your vehicle?
You could just go to the internet and do a search of qualified PDR techs in your area, but personally I feel that a better barometer of skill is word of mouth. Call up a local high-end car dealer in your area like a Mercedes-Benz or BMW dealer and ask them for a recommendation. Some of the people who purchase these types of cars are among the most pickiest and hardest to please. So when one of these dealers has a used car they are attempting to recondition for sale, they may choose only the best repair techs with experience in their field.
SPOT PAINT REPAIR
You might have a bumper that is scratched and scuffed just on one corner. Or, you might have a door dent that has cracked paint but is below a molding that extends across the length of the door. In such cases, why go through the extra expense of painting the whole panel, most of which is NOT damaged? Then Spot Paint Repair may be for you.
With spot paint repair, a highly skilled paint technician does their best to straighten the damage in a way that keeps the repair area small. They fill, prime, and color-match the area much like traditional auto body repair. However, when they reach the clear coat stage, instead of prepping and coating the entire panel, they use a special “blending-solvent” to “melt” the edge of the freshly sprayed clear coat into the existing clear coat. Many times this make for an almost imperceptible repair that the customer can feel good about.
Here are some of the quick stats on Spot Paint Repair
Fast (Repairs can take from 2-6 hours)
Some Tech’s are mobile and will come to you in order to repair your vehicle
Repair area kept smaller than traditional paint repairs
More of the vehicle maintains the integrity of its factory paint job
The same high-quality paints are used for spot paint repair that are used in traditional auto body repair
No need to be without a vehicle for days or pay extra costs of car rental
Increases trade-in value and customer’s perception of vehicle conditionCons
When panels are clear coated only partially, the edge may become visible in time. For this reason, spot paint repair is not recommended for top panels such as hoods, roofs, or trunk lids.
Depending on the skill or method of the repairer, panels may peel, not match, or look grainy or dirty, and repaired dents may still look wavy
May not be equal to factory paint job in quality and durabilityAll things considered, Spot Paint Repair is an excellent way to repair damage to a vehicle’s exterior. It may be best suited for those who are paying out of pocket or who are looking to recondition a vehicle for sale.
So, if you think that spot paint repair may be the way to go for you, then how do you go about finding a trained technician to repair your vehicle?
You could just go to the internet and do a search of qualified techs in your area, but again, personally I feel that a better barometer of skill is word of mouth. Call up a local high-end car dealer in your area like a Mercedes-Benz or BMW dealer and ask them for a recommendation. Some of the people who purchase these types of cars are among the most pickiest and hardest to please. So when one of these dealers has a used car they are attempting to recondition for sale, they may choose only the best repair techs with experience in their field.
So next time your car gets a scratch, dent, or scuff remember that there are alternatives. Paintless Dent Repair and Spot Paint Repair can save you time and money while maintaining the value of your vehicle.
Economical Alternatives to Traditional Auto Body Repair-Paintless Dent Repair & Spot Paint Repair
By Danny Leary
Economical Alternatives to Traditional Auto Body Repair – Paintless Dent Repair & Spot Paint Repair
For more information, please visit me at www.autoworxplus.com. Read other helpful articles, get tips and advice on common vehicle appearance, restoration questions. Browse our articles, our top how-to video picks, and shop at our online selection of stores that have great deals on auto parts, restoration supplies, and other items. Get recommendations on our favorite products for detailing, painting, repairing dents on all of your vehicle projects. Ask us a question if you’d like!
Danny Leary has been in the auto body repair field for many years. He enjoys sharing his knowledge and resources to help others with their auto restoration projects. He also has experience in Paintless Dent Repair, Windshield Chip Repair, Headlight Restoration, Vehicle Graphic Wrap Design, and Website Design.
How to Paint the Exterior of Your Home – Step Three
Now is the time to paint the exterior of your home. It is best to start painting on the sunny side of your home first and the reason for that is because it’s likely there is still dew on the shaded side of your home in the morning. Tip: Your house must be perfectly dry in order to start painting.
Before you start painting, it is a good idea to keep an eye on the weather for rain or snow. You don’t want to start painting only to stop abruptly because of the weather.
How warm does it have to be in order to paint your home? For most paints it typically has to be 37 degrees or warmer in order to paint the exterior of your house. Now if you are painting two coats of paint on your house and it is 55 degrees or cooler for the day, it is a good idea to paint the first coat one day and apply the second coat the day after. If you live in a really dry climate, like Denver, and your painting in the summer months, you can defiantly apply two coats in one day. However, the more humid climates in the south, it is still recommended to paint only one coat per day.
Note: How to use an airless paint sprayer. I’m sure the guy at the rental store showed you how to use the airless (typically with his limited experience of actually painting a house), so hopefully I can offer you a couple new ideas on how to paint your home using an airless paint sprayer. When you first get the airless home, set it in the middle of the area that you would like to start painting. Typically the length of the hose is around 50′. Stretch out the hose prior to painting so that you don’t have to worry about unraveling it while you are painting on a ladder. It is a good idea to have a 100′ extension cord so that you can bring the airless anywhere you wish to paint without any restrictions. Tip: before you plug in the airless into the extension cord, MAKE SURE THE AIRLESS IS OFF! You don’t want the airless to start pumping without paint! Now, when you go to set up the airless, before you turn it on, it’s a good rule of thumb to have a second empty bucket next to your bucket of paint. I’ll explain why in a second. Place both buckets side by side and place the intake hose (with the wire mesh filter end) into your 5 gallon bucket of paint while the primer hose (usually a lot smaller, about the size of a pencil’ish) is placed in the empty bucket of paint. Before you turn on the machine make sure that the airless is set to prime the machine first. There is a primer valve that you can rotate between prime and paint. A good way to see if the valve is set to prime or paint is to try this little test prior to turning the machine on. While turning the valve clockwise a couple times you will notice that the valve handle will separate from the machine in one position (leaving a slight crack between the valve and machine) while the other position the valve is close to the machine. The position in which the valve is separated from the machine is considered the primer position. Do this multiple times to see what I’m talking about. Don’t worry if you keep on spinning the valve, you can spin it a million times in one direction and it won’t hurt it.
Once you figure out which position is prime and which position is spray, place the valve in the prime position and grab the primer hose. Point the primer hose in the empty bucket near the top and at an aproxx.45 degree angle from the side (the reason for this is that there is likely to be pressure still built up in the airless and when you first switch on the airless to prime it, paint will likely burst out of the primer hose and you don’t want to have it go everywhere). Now turn the airless paint sprayer on and you will see that the airless is sucking up the new paint and pumping out the primer hose. At first you will typically see a cleaning solution come out followed by your paint. When you see your paint coming out switch over the primer valve to the other position and you will see the airless pumping paint into the main hose.
Now that you have primed the airless, make sure that there isn’t a tip in the gun of the airless and bring it over to the empty bucket. Since there is typically cleaning solution in the hose leading to the gun it is a good idea to spray that out until you see thick paint coming out. Once you have thick paint coming out you may put your tip back in. Remember that the tip will have an arrow on one side of the handle that shows which direction it must be in, in order to spray.
When spraying your house, it is a good rule of thumb to spray in the direction of the grain of the material. So if you have siding that runs horizontal, you want to spray in a horizontal style. Also, when you go to spray, the gun should be approximately 12″ from the material that you are spraying. Do not pull the handle to spray with your hand still. This will spray a lot of paint in one spot causing it to drip. So have your hand moving when you go to depress the handle. This will give you an even look to your paint.
Tip: you can tell when the bucket of paint is getting low when the airless starts pumping really loud and doesn’t stop. Simply tip the nearly empty bucket of paint, at an angle so that the mesh filter is covered and wait for the airless to catch up and stop pumping. Sometimes it’s just easier to just to replace the bucket of paint with the new one and when that starts going down, pour the excess from the old bucket into the new one.
Now that you have the airless paint sprayer and your extension ladders it’s time to paint your home. I would highly recommend painting the siding of your home first before painting the trim. The reason being is so you can just spray the house as fast as you can without worrying about painting a section of trim that you already painted. So paint the siding and soffit first followed by painting the trim. Painting the siding using an airless paint sprayer should go pretty fast.
After the siding of your home is painted you can now start on painting the trim. There are a couple different ways you can go about painting the trim of your house. The first way is to mask off all of the trim so that you can merely spray the trim color on to your house, and the second way is to roll the trim by hand. If you are the only person painting the house I would recommend rolling the trim by hand. The reason being is because it takes a long time to mask off all of the trim on your home compared to just rolling the face of the trim boards. If you have multiple people, it would be faster to have the helpers mask everything off while you start spraying the trim color.
Airless Tip: If you have somebody who can start masking off the trim, have them start on that while you convert the airless to a new color. When changing colors with an airless paint sprayer it is a good idea to have a second bucket filled half way with clean water. Place the intake hose in the clean water gently without getting the old color everywhere in the water. Take the tip out of the airless and spray all of the old paint out of the hose and back into its original paint bucket. Be careful when doing this that you recognize when the paint starts turning watery. When it does point the gun into the first bucket and spray until it looks pretty clean. It doesn’t need to be perfectly clean. When it looks good, clean off the intake line in the clean bucket and get the old color off the intake line. Now place the intake line inside of your new trim paint.
Remember, you will need to clean the airless in that same fashion before you return the airless back to the rental company.
When all of the spraying is complete, its time to remove all masking tape and paper and start touching up your entire home. This step is pretty time consuming because this is the final stage that really makes your home look good. The more time you spend here, the better your home will look.
Congratulations, you repainted your home. Sit back and relax and enjoy the way your new home looks.
How to Paint the Exterior of Your Home – Step Three
For more information please visit our website at http://www.TailoredPainting.net.
Article written by Jason Noel with Tailored Painting. For more information please visit our website at http://www.TailoredPainting.net.
Content About : How to Paint the Exterior of Your Home – Step Three Article
What You Need to Know Before Your Next Paint Job
Oil-Based vs. Water-Based Paint
When it comes to picking paint, selection begins with choosing between oil-based and water-based paints. For hundreds of years, people have been using oil-based paints for their impermeability and toughness.
Unlike water, oil does not dry by evaporation. It dries through a process of oxidation that converts the oil into a polymer chain. This means that the layer formed will be resilient and long lasting, and will withstand the degenerative effects of water and air longer than water-based paints. There are, however, several disadvantages to oil-based paints. First of all, oil paints take longer to dry than water-based paints, have a strong odor that lingers long after the paint has been applied, and contain volatile organic compounds (VOCs).
The paint pigment in oil paint is suspended in the solvent. VOCs are found in this solvent and are released as the paint is drying or being cured. VOCs are harmful to occupant health and the environment. Indoor air pollution has now been identified as being three times more harmful than pollution outdoors. This is mainly due to the release of VOCs by oil-based paints and other off-gassing interior VOC-containing finishes and furnishings. Government regulations regarding VOCs are becoming stricter; this may be one reason why oil-based paints are decreasing in popularity.
As opposed to oil-based paints, water-based paints (sometimes referred to as “latex paints” or “acrylic paints”) do not use solvents; the carrier for the pigment is primarily water. Latex paints have come a long way from when they were considered an inferior replacement for oil-based paints, and they’re now on the verge of dominating the market. The advantages of latex paints are many. The drying time is significantly shorter than oil-based paint, which requires up to 48 hours to dry, leaving the room unusable during this time. Latex paints also have a minimal odor and release significantly fewer VOCs during the drying process.
Because fewer or no VOCs are released, latex paint is significantly less harmful to building occupants. In addition, it requires less care to apply than oil-based paint and solvent, which are both highly flammable. Latex paint can also be thinned with water, unlike oil-based paint, which requires a special thinner.
Picking the Right Paint Finish
Beyond oil- and water-based categorization, paints can also be classified based on their function (e.g. primers, sealers, binders, finishing paints, etc.). They can also be classified according to the type of pigment used, like zinc, lead, and titanium (each has slightly different properties). But, by far, the most important classification of paint is the one that provides information about the type of finish.
With the traditional application of paint, the finish reveals how the paint reflects light once it’s dry. An exception is when special painting techniques (e.g. faux painting) are used, since these lend a completely different finish. Generally speaking, in commercial buildings, the finish depends solely on the type of paint used.
Certain finishes are more appropriate for certain rooms; this is because each finish has certain properties, apart from the way it looks, that distinguish it from the other finishes. Finish options include:
Matte. A matte finish reflects light poorly. It’s a rough finish that’s generally considered to be warm and comfortable. Matte finishes are not slippery; therefore, they don’t wash very well. For this reason, it’s not recommended to use a matte-finish paint on walls in rooms that have frequent visitors (e.g. a reception area or a conference room). The best places to use this finish are in executive offices or boardrooms: places where only a few people use the room, and the chances of dirtying the walls are low. Matte finish is great for hiding imperfections in the walls because highly reflective paints draw attention to imperfections by creating a crack in the uniform light reflection. Matte paints inherently avoid this problem.
Flat enamel. If you want to have the look of a matte finish in a bathroom or a café, consider paint with a flat-enamel finish. This paint holds the same properties as the matte finish, with one exception: It’s more washable. Unfortunately, paints with enamel finishes contain extremely strong chemicals and can exude an odor for several days.
Eggshell. The next paint on the curve of reflective properties-the eggshell finish-has a decent amount of sheen. If you can imagine looking at an eggshell in the light and seeing how the light bounces off of it, you’ll have a good idea about what this finish will look like. As expected, the eggshell finish is easier to clean because of its slight gloss.
Satin. A satin finish is glossier than an eggshell finish, and it’s even easier to keep clean. Due to their dirt resistance and ease of cleaning, the usual choices of location for satin finishes are halls and stairways. The finish gives a velvety shine to the surface and will not hide imperfections.
Semi-gloss. Semi-gloss paints have a high durability and a good amount of sheen. They are best used on surfaces like doors and trim. Due to their high water resistance and ease of cleaning, they are also an excellent choice for painting the walls of kitchens and bathrooms.
Gloss. At the high end of the reflective gradient are glossy paints, which are rarely chosen for interior walls due to their extreme shine-any imperfections will glaringly stand out. It’s best to use them when painting floors and trim; the finish is extremely durable.
Prepping the Surface
Painting a room is more than just taking out a brush and applying the paint. It’s a well-known fact that a good paint job is 80-percent preparation. This holds true whether you’re painting office walls or an entire building. Try painting a ceramic tile by directly applying the paint; you’ll find that the paint just doesn’t stay because the ceramic tiles are smooth and glossy, and don’t give the paint any grip. The role of the top layer of paint is primarily to provide color. It’s not made to have great adhesion or protection value. To get paint to stick to any surface, you need to use a primer. A primer is a layer of paint that’s applied before the topcoat. It’s designed to stick to almost anything. Once this is laid down and dried, the topcoat of paint is applied; this time, it’ll hold.
Having a good primer is, however, only part of the process. All surfaces need to be prepared to receive paint. The type of preparation depends on the surface. Wood needs to be planed and sandpapered. Depending on whether it’s hardwood or softwood, you may need to get rid of knots that will exude resin and spoil the paint job.
If the paint is being applied to metal, the most important step is removing any grease. This can be done with a liquid de-glosser. Rust must also be removed. Specific rust cleaners containing oxalic acid are made for this purpose. If pipes that contain hot water are being painted, then the paint needs to have special properties that enable it to withstand heat.
Applying the Paint
It’s almost always necessary to paint a surface with more than one coat, and there are several reasons for this. The main reason is to get the full color that you want. With just a single coat of paint, you might be able to see a glimpse of the original color underneath. Also, two coats are more durable. In addition, the second coat of paint allows you to cover up what may have been missed during the first pass. In general, the second coat of paint can extend the life of the paint job by a factor of three. As a rule of thumb, two coats of paint are accepted to be enough for a surface.
As mentioned in the discussion of oil and latex paints above, the time the paint takes to dry depends on the drying process. If you’re using latex paints, the drying process takes place by evaporation and is, therefore, much faster-maybe as quick as 1 hour. Oil-based paints, however, don’t dry in the conventional way: They are cured, and this can take several days. Since it’s necessary to wait for the first coat of paint to dry or cure before the second coat is applied, your paint job will either be hastened or delayed, depending on the type of paint being used.
Various surfaces require different painting techniques. Additionally, some surfaces take well to certain paints. Painting drywall surfaces is fairly straightforward. Drywall (also known as gypsum board, wallboard, or plasterboard) is a panel of gypsum surrounded or lined with paper. Drywall surfaces take well to water-based paints, and any finish will look nice, apart from a glossy finish.
Painting block surfaces, such as masonry or stone, is problematic because the surface is often uneven. Several pores and cracks make it impossible for a primer to do its job properly and fill them in; therefore, block filler, a paint-like material that smoothes out uneven or porous surfaces, is necessary. It’s also used on concrete blocks. While block filler isn’t very durable, it’s possible to use it as a finishing coat by itself. It’s recommended, though, that a more durable finish, like eggshell or semi-gloss paint, is applied after the block filler.
For metal surfaces, consider using latex paints. Due to the latest advances in paint manufacturing, water-based paints have now become a viable alternative to oil-based paints, and are often preferred due to their environmental friendliness. (In the past, water-based paints promoted the formation of rust on the metal through oxidation.) To paint metal that has been previously coated with an oil-based paint, the metal must be properly prepared by being de-glossed and coated with a latex-bonding primer. Glossy finishes, like satin or full-gloss paints, are typically used for painting metal surfaces due to their ability to protect against water and mold. Another good option for metallic surfaces is an epoxy coating.
Now you have some education on painting here are some tips for hiring a professional painting contractor.
To find the best service provider for your painting project, keep the following in mind when you’re interviewing prospective companies:
1) What kind of a reputation do they have? The best testament to the quality and or production of a service provider’s work is their work, and you’re not going to find a more accurate assessment of that than by talking to their former clients. If a company has a bad reputation among the people they’ve worked with in the past but they’re giving you a great price, steer clear. You may very well find yourself with poor workmanship and unanswered phone calls.
2) How much experience do they have with your particular painting project? All painting jobs are NOT created equal, and before you invite a company to come in and start the job you want to make sure they know what they’re doing. A service provider that’s specialized in landscaping and exterior remodels up until this point probably isn’t going to be the one you want to help you rip out your bathroom. (On the other hand, if you’re thinking about installing a fountain in your front hallway you’re in good hands.)
3) Are they willing to work with you? When it comes down to it, the bottom line is that this is your property. It should be the way you want it! A company that’s willing to take your money but give you very little input once the job is underway is going to frustrate you, aggravate themselves and leave you in a beautifully remodeled building or office that doesn’t look anything like you’d pictured it.
4) What are their scheduling policies? Many times a contractor will just tell you what you want to hear to win the job, then do something completely different once the contract is signed which all boils down to their reputation. What type of manpower do they have are their painters skilled craftsman or do they employ mostly college kids and or helpers? Most importantly you will want to make sure the painting contractor you hire is licensed, bonded, and insured.
5) Be sure that you know, to the last nail, what is going to be covered by each bid before you sign on the dotted line. The last thing you want to do is choose a company, then find yourself faced with a nasty surprise once work is actually underway.
The bottom line is that there are hundreds of service providers out there who are going to do a great job for your painting. All you have to do is have the patience and put out the effort to find them.
What You Need to Know Before Your Next Paint Job
Jaworski Coatings, Inc,
41375 Oberlin Elyria Rd.
Eylria, Ohio 44035
Toll Free Office 1-866-87-2114
Fax (440) 328-4539
Content About : What You Need to Know Before Your Next Paint Job Article